Broughton Archipelago Cruise - August 5-19, 2011
First Leg: Port McNeill, Sointula & Alert Bay
Welcom sign at Alert Bay Marina
We launched Port Nut and Red Current in Port McNeill after traveling "up-island" from our home in White Rock, BC via BC Ferries from Tsawassen to Nanaimo. We made our departure the next day after first having secured parking for two weeks. Our first stop was Sointula on Malcom Is., an old Finnish settlement. When I had done my boating research in the past, I would often encounter references to "Sointula-built" boats and now we were walking the shoreline and visiting the old boat ways that were slowly falling victim to the power of nature. We paid a visit to the museum and made other necessary stops at the bakery and coffee shop before venturing to Alert Bay on Cormorant Is.
Alert Bay offers a sea-side promenade and residences along the shoreline. Further residential areas lie inland. The walk provides ample entertainment: boardwalk, piers, an old church and closed fish packing plants are strung along the shore up to the modern building that is the U'mista Cultural Centre, a museum that features heritage artifacts as well as showcasing modern native art. At the present time, there is an exchange exhibit of Saxon artifacts that, although exquisite, seem ridiculously incongruous alongside the First Nations display. The Namgis people form the larger percentage of the population of Alert Bay and they came across as having a robust and friendly community. Up the hill, behind the now-closed, sinister-looking residential school, is the community long house with the tallest totem pole we have ever seen. I had to remind myself that this little town is but the remnant of a once-widespread people that lived among the islands which we would visit in the coming days. Following is a slide show of that first leg. Hold cursor over photo to make "Play" appear. Then, keep following the page down to read other segments and see further photo collections.
Alert Bay offers a sea-side promenade and residences along the shoreline. Further residential areas lie inland. The walk provides ample entertainment: boardwalk, piers, an old church and closed fish packing plants are strung along the shore up to the modern building that is the U'mista Cultural Centre, a museum that features heritage artifacts as well as showcasing modern native art. At the present time, there is an exchange exhibit of Saxon artifacts that, although exquisite, seem ridiculously incongruous alongside the First Nations display. The Namgis people form the larger percentage of the population of Alert Bay and they came across as having a robust and friendly community. Up the hill, behind the now-closed, sinister-looking residential school, is the community long house with the tallest totem pole we have ever seen. I had to remind myself that this little town is but the remnant of a once-widespread people that lived among the islands which we would visit in the coming days. Following is a slide show of that first leg. Hold cursor over photo to make "Play" appear. Then, keep following the page down to read other segments and see further photo collections.
Blackfish Sound to Minstrel Island
GPS Screen at Plumper Islands
The crossing of Blackfish Sound was a lot easier than anticipated, and more beautiful. Sports fishers abounded and were reeling in salmon from the fast-moving waters. An Alaska-bound cruise ship, the Norwegian Star, brightened up the day as it appeared out of Blackney Passage. Although the morning was cloudy, the skies grew bright and clear as we anchored for our lunch stop at Mound Island. This weather pattern of morning cloud followed by afternoon sun was to become familiar as the cruise progressed. There is a midden at Mound Island and we passed our time exploring and speculating about the past. We then cruised along Harbledown Is. and passed "New Vancouver", a cluster of houses with a "welcome" sign posted at the dock, but as it had not been in our plans to stop (as we did not know there were facilities available here) we gave it a pass. We went on to Dead Pt. to anchor for the night.
The guide books suggested that this was the site of the "Monk's Wall" and next morning we set off to search for it. When we eventually found the site, it was anti-climatical but nevertheless worth the trouble. In the same bay are also two sites that were once homesteads of an Hawaiian family. There were a lot of crockery shards on the beach and we spent some time poking about before weighing anchor and traveling the short distance to Mamalilaculla, a large village site that has been abandoned since the '60s. We baked in the sun as we walked the narrow paths that have been blazed through the blackberries and salal. Only a few structures remain here, including an almost unrecognizable totem that is lying on the ground. Mother Nature is slowly reclaiming it. Our destination that night was Pott's Lagoon and we transited Beware Passage and cruised by Karlukwees Village to get there.
There are 5 or 6 float homes in Pott's. Several yachts were also anchored there. The next morning, we dinghyed into the inner lagoon and took our time exploring the Potts homestead as well as the remnants of logging operations. Inside the bush are several fallen cabins and many objects lay scattered about to our archeological delight. Then it was time to take the short cruise up Clio Channel to Lagoon Cove Marina. Everyone agreed that it was time to have a shower and the hosts, Bill & Jean have a very nice facility there, being assisted by Bob & Pat who live aboard their Wahl-built boat, the Tonga. At Happy Hour, Bill & Jean provide prawns to go with the appetizers contributed by boat crews. The highlight is Bill's storytelling.
Next morning dawned on the wet side and it rained as we traveled the short distance to Minstrel Island. The place was all but deserted and several of the few structures ashore were being consumed by the forest or falling in on themselves. A walk ashore, led up to some undeveloped lots complete with drilled wells. The properties had no redeeming qualities and we wondered who might want to buy them. They were surveyed out of a logging area and had no view. It was disappointing to see the once-vibrant Minstrel Island, a historic centre of activity during the logging hey-day, falling into oblivion. The rain continued and we pressed on, oblivious to the coming events that would make this day our most difficult one of the cruise. Below is a slide show of the described locations.
The guide books suggested that this was the site of the "Monk's Wall" and next morning we set off to search for it. When we eventually found the site, it was anti-climatical but nevertheless worth the trouble. In the same bay are also two sites that were once homesteads of an Hawaiian family. There were a lot of crockery shards on the beach and we spent some time poking about before weighing anchor and traveling the short distance to Mamalilaculla, a large village site that has been abandoned since the '60s. We baked in the sun as we walked the narrow paths that have been blazed through the blackberries and salal. Only a few structures remain here, including an almost unrecognizable totem that is lying on the ground. Mother Nature is slowly reclaiming it. Our destination that night was Pott's Lagoon and we transited Beware Passage and cruised by Karlukwees Village to get there.
There are 5 or 6 float homes in Pott's. Several yachts were also anchored there. The next morning, we dinghyed into the inner lagoon and took our time exploring the Potts homestead as well as the remnants of logging operations. Inside the bush are several fallen cabins and many objects lay scattered about to our archeological delight. Then it was time to take the short cruise up Clio Channel to Lagoon Cove Marina. Everyone agreed that it was time to have a shower and the hosts, Bill & Jean have a very nice facility there, being assisted by Bob & Pat who live aboard their Wahl-built boat, the Tonga. At Happy Hour, Bill & Jean provide prawns to go with the appetizers contributed by boat crews. The highlight is Bill's storytelling.
Next morning dawned on the wet side and it rained as we traveled the short distance to Minstrel Island. The place was all but deserted and several of the few structures ashore were being consumed by the forest or falling in on themselves. A walk ashore, led up to some undeveloped lots complete with drilled wells. The properties had no redeeming qualities and we wondered who might want to buy them. They were surveyed out of a logging area and had no view. It was disappointing to see the once-vibrant Minstrel Island, a historic centre of activity during the logging hey-day, falling into oblivion. The rain continued and we pressed on, oblivious to the coming events that would make this day our most difficult one of the cruise. Below is a slide show of the described locations.
To Thompson Sound & Kwatsi Bay
Lacey Falls in the dry season
After we left Minstrel Island, we made our passage through Clapp and Sargeaunt Passages to Kumlah Island where we stopped for lunch. We then decided that it now being a nice day, we would explore Thompson Sound as there were old logging operations at the head. Upon arriving there, a bit of chop was building as the wind was strong and had a long reach. It was too difficult to go ashore lacking a quiet anchorage in which to leave the boats, so we turned to head out again. That's when the rudder on the Red Current began to respond erratically. The vessel could not steer effectively, so we rafted up and the two vessels went to the lee of Sackville Island to perform a diagnostic. Here too, the swell made it difficult to work and we moved a little further to the lee of an old logging moorage. There, tied to the logs, we at last reconnected the steering arm to the rudder shaft as the keyway bolt had worked loose. We secured it in place with stainless wire, a little job that we thought should have been done by the factory as it is a safety issue.
Relieved, we then cruised down Thompson sound and turned into Wahkana Bay to anchor for the night. When we arrived, we were all pretty tired and I did a poor job of anchoring. With the hook on a steep ledge, we should have stern-tied for increased security but opted instead to skip right to dinner and an early bedtime. About 0300, I woke up to the aggravating sound of fenders bumping against the hull. Since Bruce had rearranged them on a previous night, I felt that it was my turn to get out of bed. Going outside, I noted that we were in a 1 foot chop and that all of the other vessels had turned off their anchor lights. Strange. Walking forward to rearrange the fenders, I heard what sounded like a seal exhaling. The skyline looked different too! It was then that I noticed that we were no longer at our anchorage and the sound was chop churning on an exposed rock nearby. Tapping on the windows of the Red Current, we all soon set to work casting apart and trying to return to our anchorage. It was a difficult transit at night and we all were in a state of anxiety, never having cruised in the dark before. We had drifted nearly 2 miles! At idle speed it took an hour to return to our starting place and securely re-set anchors. After some time, we all slept again having endured what was to be our most troublesome day of the trip.
The next day, we made the short crossing of Tribune Channel to Kwatsi Bay Marina. After settling in, we all went for a "day trip" aboard the Port Nut to Watson Cove to check out the giant cedar that grows there. It was a worthwhile little hike and a very pleasant afternoon. Kwatsi Bay is a pretty setting with a small marina. There is no store or fuel but Max and Anca, together with their son Russell were very kind. Max made some awesome bread for happy hour.
The following day, we were going to cruise to Echo Bay and visit Billy's Museum. It was time to re-fuel as we were heading up Mackenzie Sound after that. On the way there, however, we stopped for lunch at the Burdwood Group and discovered a beautiful setting with a midden beach. This spot is used by kayakers for camping. Check out the photos in the following slideshow which highlight all of these great spots.
Relieved, we then cruised down Thompson sound and turned into Wahkana Bay to anchor for the night. When we arrived, we were all pretty tired and I did a poor job of anchoring. With the hook on a steep ledge, we should have stern-tied for increased security but opted instead to skip right to dinner and an early bedtime. About 0300, I woke up to the aggravating sound of fenders bumping against the hull. Since Bruce had rearranged them on a previous night, I felt that it was my turn to get out of bed. Going outside, I noted that we were in a 1 foot chop and that all of the other vessels had turned off their anchor lights. Strange. Walking forward to rearrange the fenders, I heard what sounded like a seal exhaling. The skyline looked different too! It was then that I noticed that we were no longer at our anchorage and the sound was chop churning on an exposed rock nearby. Tapping on the windows of the Red Current, we all soon set to work casting apart and trying to return to our anchorage. It was a difficult transit at night and we all were in a state of anxiety, never having cruised in the dark before. We had drifted nearly 2 miles! At idle speed it took an hour to return to our starting place and securely re-set anchors. After some time, we all slept again having endured what was to be our most troublesome day of the trip.
The next day, we made the short crossing of Tribune Channel to Kwatsi Bay Marina. After settling in, we all went for a "day trip" aboard the Port Nut to Watson Cove to check out the giant cedar that grows there. It was a worthwhile little hike and a very pleasant afternoon. Kwatsi Bay is a pretty setting with a small marina. There is no store or fuel but Max and Anca, together with their son Russell were very kind. Max made some awesome bread for happy hour.
The following day, we were going to cruise to Echo Bay and visit Billy's Museum. It was time to re-fuel as we were heading up Mackenzie Sound after that. On the way there, however, we stopped for lunch at the Burdwood Group and discovered a beautiful setting with a midden beach. This spot is used by kayakers for camping. Check out the photos in the following slideshow which highlight all of these great spots.
Echo Bay to Sullivan Bay
Billy Proctor
The single biggest reason that I was excited to visit the Broughtons is Billy Proctor. I had read both of his books and thought of the Broughtons as one of the ultimate destinations on my boating "bucket list." When we arrived at his place after hiking the short trail from Echo Bay, the sun was shining and all was quiet. I called out "hello!" and the response came from right beside me and startled me. Billy was reclining in a wheelbarrow with a rifle in his hands. I suspect that he doesn't greet all his guests in the same manner, and certainly there was no threat intended, but it made for a memorable first impression. As it turned out, there had been a cougar nearby just minutes prior and he was getting ready to kill it if he could. I greeted him with a handshake then and the comment that it felt like I was fulfilling a pilgrimage.
Visiting Billy's Museum was everything I had expected. It is indeed a walk through the past, all the way from pre-contact times to modern times. Objects that he has collected are on display and Billy walked around with us talking about how he had found them and what they were used for. He had story after story to tell but clearly his greatest passion concerns the loss of the once-abundant salmon stocks. All four of us enjoyed this highlight of the trip and I felt great personal gratification.
While in Echo Bay, we re-fueled, re-provisioned and made phone contact with civilization. We very much missed our 3 month old grandson and wanted to know how things were back home. While there, the RCMP boat Lindsay stopped in and I recognized the son of an old friend in one of the officers. We had a tour of the boat as a result to see how our tax dollars are spent.
Our next leg of the trip took us into historic Simoom Sound where the rains came again to our great disappointment. We walked in the footsteps of Captain Vancouver along the short trek from O'Brien Bay to Shawl Bay. On that rainy day there was nothing much to see but bear scat ashore, so we retreated to our little boats and made the long passage to Sullivan Bay in order to better position ourselves for Mackenzie Sound.
Visiting Billy's Museum was everything I had expected. It is indeed a walk through the past, all the way from pre-contact times to modern times. Objects that he has collected are on display and Billy walked around with us talking about how he had found them and what they were used for. He had story after story to tell but clearly his greatest passion concerns the loss of the once-abundant salmon stocks. All four of us enjoyed this highlight of the trip and I felt great personal gratification.
While in Echo Bay, we re-fueled, re-provisioned and made phone contact with civilization. We very much missed our 3 month old grandson and wanted to know how things were back home. While there, the RCMP boat Lindsay stopped in and I recognized the son of an old friend in one of the officers. We had a tour of the boat as a result to see how our tax dollars are spent.
Our next leg of the trip took us into historic Simoom Sound where the rains came again to our great disappointment. We walked in the footsteps of Captain Vancouver along the short trek from O'Brien Bay to Shawl Bay. On that rainy day there was nothing much to see but bear scat ashore, so we retreated to our little boats and made the long passage to Sullivan Bay in order to better position ourselves for Mackenzie Sound.
Sullivan Bay Marina
Sullivan Bay is an American playground. There are huge boats throughout the marina and clients regularly fly in from the states to go on fishing charters. They go home happy with salmon and halibut freshly caught. These big spenders keep these businesses alive.
Mackenzie Sound
We cruised Mackenzie Sound in one day. It seemed like a hurried trip, too short to fully appreciate what this beautiful area has to offer. Indeed, our 2-week cruise was only enough to sample the Broughtons and there is a lot more to experience than what we included in our itinerary.
We left Sullivan Bay under heavy skies and it rained for the first part of the morning. When the clouds parted, however, we had spectacular views in this well-protected cruising ground. Our first stop was Turnbull Cove and it was evident that recent slides had occurred here. We then traveled up to the end of the sound, bypassing Little Nimmo Bay where there is a resort. From the outside, the resort looked closed and clearly there were no boats fishing in the area. We returned via Hopetown Passage on the slack of the flood tide. As a result, we had lots of depth and calm water for the traverse. Red Current led the way and had to maneuvre around large beds of Bull kelp to get through. We ultimately anchored at Hoy Bay where there are a few houses clustered together. We rafted up in the next bay over and began our afternoon activities. We saw a bear on shore, so for Rosa, this meant staying aboard fishing and she caught a rock fish that she was persuaded to return to the sea. Some Buddhist concept. The other three went ashore to see an old logging area and we sat raptly observing a bear taking advantage of the receding tide to look for food under rocks on the beach.
The next day, we saw a bear cub on the beach before weighing anchor for refuelling at Sullivan Bay Marina where the customer ahead of me spent $2400. My bill was $33 for fuel and two cinnamon buns. God bless American boaters, for without them these marinas would not exist. Leaving Sullivan Bay, we headed south into Wells Passage making our way to the Polkinghorne Islands. At the north entrance to the islands we came close to a Humpback Whale feeding in the shallows. This passage is beautiful and we anchored about mid-way through it near the drying cove. The bottom is near enough that we had our personal aquarium to admire. We spotted a small halibut passing beneath our boat. After lunch, we continued on the outside of the islands toward Cullen Harbour. Enroute we spotted another Humpback.
Cullen Harbour was busy with traffic and there was a breeze coming into the anchorage which created a chop that we didn't very much like. Rather than deal with that, we pressed on to Joe Cove where we expected that it would at least be calm. To our surprise, there were no other boats there and we had the derelict float all to ourselves. Joe Cove is teeming with jellyfish and in the morning, low tide also revealed the clam gardens that the ancients have created.
I have added a slideshow of the Mackenzie Sound tour:
We left Sullivan Bay under heavy skies and it rained for the first part of the morning. When the clouds parted, however, we had spectacular views in this well-protected cruising ground. Our first stop was Turnbull Cove and it was evident that recent slides had occurred here. We then traveled up to the end of the sound, bypassing Little Nimmo Bay where there is a resort. From the outside, the resort looked closed and clearly there were no boats fishing in the area. We returned via Hopetown Passage on the slack of the flood tide. As a result, we had lots of depth and calm water for the traverse. Red Current led the way and had to maneuvre around large beds of Bull kelp to get through. We ultimately anchored at Hoy Bay where there are a few houses clustered together. We rafted up in the next bay over and began our afternoon activities. We saw a bear on shore, so for Rosa, this meant staying aboard fishing and she caught a rock fish that she was persuaded to return to the sea. Some Buddhist concept. The other three went ashore to see an old logging area and we sat raptly observing a bear taking advantage of the receding tide to look for food under rocks on the beach.
The next day, we saw a bear cub on the beach before weighing anchor for refuelling at Sullivan Bay Marina where the customer ahead of me spent $2400. My bill was $33 for fuel and two cinnamon buns. God bless American boaters, for without them these marinas would not exist. Leaving Sullivan Bay, we headed south into Wells Passage making our way to the Polkinghorne Islands. At the north entrance to the islands we came close to a Humpback Whale feeding in the shallows. This passage is beautiful and we anchored about mid-way through it near the drying cove. The bottom is near enough that we had our personal aquarium to admire. We spotted a small halibut passing beneath our boat. After lunch, we continued on the outside of the islands toward Cullen Harbour. Enroute we spotted another Humpback.
Cullen Harbour was busy with traffic and there was a breeze coming into the anchorage which created a chop that we didn't very much like. Rather than deal with that, we pressed on to Joe Cove where we expected that it would at least be calm. To our surprise, there were no other boats there and we had the derelict float all to ourselves. Joe Cove is teeming with jellyfish and in the morning, low tide also revealed the clam gardens that the ancients have created.
I have added a slideshow of the Mackenzie Sound tour:
The Last Leg
Sunset at Mound Island Anchorage
The next day, we departed for Blunden Passage where there are two pretty midden beaches to explore. The one on Insect Island is larger than that on Eden Island and had, in addition, a large clear area for kayakers to use as a campsite. When we landed, there was a sign warning of an aggressive cougar encounter which motivated Rosa to pick up a large stick before venturing further along in our exploration.
After lunch we cruised past the Fox Group and settled in for the night at Waddington Bay. As the afternoon progressed several other boats came into the anchorage including a Ranger 25, the Maloo II. Her nice skipper came right over to greet us and upon determining that we are not fishers, he readily returned with several rock fish for our supper. These I took ashore to clean and saved the heads for crab bait. The tinned cat food from WalMart just wasn't catching anything. Together with mussels from Insect Island and other additions, we had a tremendous dinner.
The next morning was cloudy again. As we departed Waddington Bay, a gentle rain was falling and misty, moody yet spectacular West Coast images lay in every direction we looked. As the morning progressed and we made our way down Arrow Passage, the heaviness lifted gradually. We passed a significant aquaculture operation at Sedgely Cove and saw abundant bird life in the approach to the open water of Queen Charlotte Strait. We turned south into the Fog Islets which was a challenging traverse. There are so many islands and rocks that it is difficult to keep one's orientation. We are ever so grateful for GPS. We then made a crossing of Knight Inlet and settled down for lunch at the Goat Island anchorage on Crease Island where two other vessels were anchored. One of their crews rowed over, curious about our little craft. At a suitable lull in the conversation that ensued, I observed that the skipper wore a Canadian Coast Guard cap and I asked if he was in the service. It turned out that their daughter was and by coincidence, she is someone that I know. Small world!
In the afternoon, we cruised past the Chief's Bathtub and Farewell Harbour. It was then that I spotted the Norwegian Star in Blackfish Sound, the same ship that we had encountered on our outward leg was returning from it's Alaskan cruise. Arriving at Mound Island, we closed the loop that we had begun two weeks earlier.
The anchorage has a large derelict float that can accommodate 4 small or 2 large boats. The evening was pleasant and we sat on lawn chairs on the float; our own little "Happy Hour". Some wag had whimsically penned a sign to contact the concierge for services. The breeze grew chilly and we bundled up as we chatted on into the evening about our experiences and tomorrow's run to Pt. McNeill. Long after the sun had gone down for us, there was still sunlight at New Vancouver and later still, a partial moon rose over that little grouping of homes. We all went to bed content that our cruise had been a pleasant one and full of enthusiasm about future cruises together. Following is a short slideshow of the narrated events.
After lunch we cruised past the Fox Group and settled in for the night at Waddington Bay. As the afternoon progressed several other boats came into the anchorage including a Ranger 25, the Maloo II. Her nice skipper came right over to greet us and upon determining that we are not fishers, he readily returned with several rock fish for our supper. These I took ashore to clean and saved the heads for crab bait. The tinned cat food from WalMart just wasn't catching anything. Together with mussels from Insect Island and other additions, we had a tremendous dinner.
The next morning was cloudy again. As we departed Waddington Bay, a gentle rain was falling and misty, moody yet spectacular West Coast images lay in every direction we looked. As the morning progressed and we made our way down Arrow Passage, the heaviness lifted gradually. We passed a significant aquaculture operation at Sedgely Cove and saw abundant bird life in the approach to the open water of Queen Charlotte Strait. We turned south into the Fog Islets which was a challenging traverse. There are so many islands and rocks that it is difficult to keep one's orientation. We are ever so grateful for GPS. We then made a crossing of Knight Inlet and settled down for lunch at the Goat Island anchorage on Crease Island where two other vessels were anchored. One of their crews rowed over, curious about our little craft. At a suitable lull in the conversation that ensued, I observed that the skipper wore a Canadian Coast Guard cap and I asked if he was in the service. It turned out that their daughter was and by coincidence, she is someone that I know. Small world!
In the afternoon, we cruised past the Chief's Bathtub and Farewell Harbour. It was then that I spotted the Norwegian Star in Blackfish Sound, the same ship that we had encountered on our outward leg was returning from it's Alaskan cruise. Arriving at Mound Island, we closed the loop that we had begun two weeks earlier.
The anchorage has a large derelict float that can accommodate 4 small or 2 large boats. The evening was pleasant and we sat on lawn chairs on the float; our own little "Happy Hour". Some wag had whimsically penned a sign to contact the concierge for services. The breeze grew chilly and we bundled up as we chatted on into the evening about our experiences and tomorrow's run to Pt. McNeill. Long after the sun had gone down for us, there was still sunlight at New Vancouver and later still, a partial moon rose over that little grouping of homes. We all went to bed content that our cruise had been a pleasant one and full of enthusiasm about future cruises together. Following is a short slideshow of the narrated events.