Desolation Sound - July 17 to August 4, 2013
This 19 day cruise was the longest that the Port Nut has undertaken. We were three vessels: Port Nut with John and Rosa, Red Current with Bruce and Debbie and Red Ranger with Johnny the K, Sharman and a chocolate Lab named Sable. It was an ambitious cruise, having us leave Vancouver and steaming north to Desolation Sound and then westward through the Discovery Islands to Shoal Bay. There, we turned southward via Johnstone Strait to meander our way home again. Throughout the days, we lived close together and shared lots of laughter. Circumstances, that inevitably lead to laying bare our strengths and weaknesses. Our relationships were strengthened as a result and new friendships forged.
A tentative itinerary had been developed during trip planning and, for the most part, it was adhered to. A side trip to Princess Louisa Inlet was contemplated but it was too ambitious to achieve. In fact, Red Ranger had to break away a couple of days earlier than planned due to pressing issues back at “Reality Base”.
Like the scenery, the weather was spectacular throughout the trip, save for two days near the end when it rained during the night. By next morning the world was fresh and clean, although cloudy. Twice, we suffered from the rough waters of windy days. Once was transiting Johnstone Strait which is infamous for summer gales and the other was cruising from Jedediah Island to Sechelt when the wind, which had blown a steady 20 knots for two days, had set up a difficult crossing for us. The Merry Island weather station was off line and while around Georgia Strait it was fairly calm, we were unaware of local rough conditions. Things broke.
Arriving back at our starting point, we discovered that it was the Vancouver Fireworks Festival finale so we stayed on the hook one more night to take in this spectacular event. It was a memorable trip.
Following are a series of narratives and slideshows describing the various sections of the trip; swing your pointer over the photo and click "Play"
A tentative itinerary had been developed during trip planning and, for the most part, it was adhered to. A side trip to Princess Louisa Inlet was contemplated but it was too ambitious to achieve. In fact, Red Ranger had to break away a couple of days earlier than planned due to pressing issues back at “Reality Base”.
Like the scenery, the weather was spectacular throughout the trip, save for two days near the end when it rained during the night. By next morning the world was fresh and clean, although cloudy. Twice, we suffered from the rough waters of windy days. Once was transiting Johnstone Strait which is infamous for summer gales and the other was cruising from Jedediah Island to Sechelt when the wind, which had blown a steady 20 knots for two days, had set up a difficult crossing for us. The Merry Island weather station was off line and while around Georgia Strait it was fairly calm, we were unaware of local rough conditions. Things broke.
Arriving back at our starting point, we discovered that it was the Vancouver Fireworks Festival finale so we stayed on the hook one more night to take in this spectacular event. It was a memorable trip.
Following are a series of narratives and slideshows describing the various sections of the trip; swing your pointer over the photo and click "Play"
The starting point is Vanier Park in Vancouver’s Kitsilano area. The three boats were launched and set off across English Bay to Point Atkinson. Turning north, we cruised around Bowen Island to Keats Island where our first evening was spent at the Plumper Cove dock and everyone began to get acquainted. The Red Ranger complement had not cruised with the others before. “Johnnny the K” is from the Seattle, while Sharman is from Anchorage. Not sure where Sable is from.
Next day, we cruised up the Sunshine Coast, stopping briefly at Sechelt to visit our friend Rob who was busy working. Then he got more busy, at being a warm host and making us fresh coffee. Continuing on, we paused for fuel at Secret Cove and then anchored for the night at Garden Bay in Pender Harbour.
Next day was sunny and warm yet again. In fact, it was sunny and warm through just about the entire trip. A rarity on the West Coast. Rosa helmed the boat as we cruised northward while the skipper soaked up the sun and enjoyed the passing scenery. In Blind Bay, we tucked into Ballet Bay for a break. Some took advantage of the warm water and swam while others rowed around to marvel at the beautiful vacation homes. Reluctantly, we weighed anchor after lunch and docked at Powell River at 1510. After fueling, we were met by my old colleague, Ken, and his wife Audrey. This was the first time that Rosa and I met Audrey and she was delightful! We enjoyed their company, their shower and their food (both on the plate and out of the garden to replenish the boat's stores). It was a wonderful reunion with a very old friend.
Next day, we cruised up the Sunshine Coast, stopping briefly at Sechelt to visit our friend Rob who was busy working. Then he got more busy, at being a warm host and making us fresh coffee. Continuing on, we paused for fuel at Secret Cove and then anchored for the night at Garden Bay in Pender Harbour.
Next day was sunny and warm yet again. In fact, it was sunny and warm through just about the entire trip. A rarity on the West Coast. Rosa helmed the boat as we cruised northward while the skipper soaked up the sun and enjoyed the passing scenery. In Blind Bay, we tucked into Ballet Bay for a break. Some took advantage of the warm water and swam while others rowed around to marvel at the beautiful vacation homes. Reluctantly, we weighed anchor after lunch and docked at Powell River at 1510. After fueling, we were met by my old colleague, Ken, and his wife Audrey. This was the first time that Rosa and I met Audrey and she was delightful! We enjoyed their company, their shower and their food (both on the plate and out of the garden to replenish the boat's stores). It was a wonderful reunion with a very old friend.
After Powell River, home to a big pulp mill, we cruised northward past Harwood and Savary islands and made a stop at Lund, apparently famous for its cinnamon buns. I have to report that they paled in comparison to the cinnamon buns at Sullivan Bay Marina in the Broughtons which we savoured two years ago. Lund has a pretty setting and is the jumping off place both for Savary Island and Desolation Sound. We then cruised to Refuge Cove for the night. Refuge Cove offers fuel, a great store and more importantly, there was a diver to cut the rope which had become entangled in the propeller of the Red Ranger. After that morning's inauspicious start, we cruised to Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven. There, we had lunch and a nap.
Waking up groggy from my siesta, I started off with the anchor still deployed and was alerted to this by Red Ranger. Stopping quickly to retrieve it, I neglected to ensure that I was in neutral and nearly backed into a very expensive-looking yacht in the process. It was time to leave Dodge! We rafted up together in Tenedos Bay where we were joined by S/V Tuesday’s Child with Tom & Don, friends of Bruce and Debbie. The next day, it was time to hike to Unwin Lake for a swim. Did I mention that it was still sunny and hot? It was refreshing and just what we all needed.
Unwin Lake is a short, easy hike away. The water is clear as crystal and very pleasant to swim in on a hot day. We ate Cheezies for a snack. Note: because they aren’t available in the USA, I warned our American friends not to touch themselves in awkward places without first washing their hands. The bright orange food dye leaves tell-tale traces. To drive home the point, I related the story of the man who went to the doctor complaining that his penis had turned orange. I think that it was at about this point in the trip that the two academics on Red Ranger (Sharman even plays in the symphony) realized that there was little hope of having any meaningful intellectual intercourse on this trip.
In the afternoon, we cruised the short distance to Roscoe Bay where we again rafted up, including Tuesday’s Child. Here, there is another short hike to a lake, Black Lake, where we again went for a refreshing swim. It is very peaceful at the lake and only a few other boaters came by and each was cheerful and pleasant. Again, poising your pointer over the photo below, will reveal the "Play' button.
Waking up groggy from my siesta, I started off with the anchor still deployed and was alerted to this by Red Ranger. Stopping quickly to retrieve it, I neglected to ensure that I was in neutral and nearly backed into a very expensive-looking yacht in the process. It was time to leave Dodge! We rafted up together in Tenedos Bay where we were joined by S/V Tuesday’s Child with Tom & Don, friends of Bruce and Debbie. The next day, it was time to hike to Unwin Lake for a swim. Did I mention that it was still sunny and hot? It was refreshing and just what we all needed.
Unwin Lake is a short, easy hike away. The water is clear as crystal and very pleasant to swim in on a hot day. We ate Cheezies for a snack. Note: because they aren’t available in the USA, I warned our American friends not to touch themselves in awkward places without first washing their hands. The bright orange food dye leaves tell-tale traces. To drive home the point, I related the story of the man who went to the doctor complaining that his penis had turned orange. I think that it was at about this point in the trip that the two academics on Red Ranger (Sharman even plays in the symphony) realized that there was little hope of having any meaningful intellectual intercourse on this trip.
In the afternoon, we cruised the short distance to Roscoe Bay where we again rafted up, including Tuesday’s Child. Here, there is another short hike to a lake, Black Lake, where we again went for a refreshing swim. It is very peaceful at the lake and only a few other boaters came by and each was cheerful and pleasant. Again, poising your pointer over the photo below, will reveal the "Play' button.
Early morning on July 23, we weighed anchor and cruised northward through Waddington Channel. We departed from the planned itinerary of cruising around East Redonda Island to Walsh Cove for the night. Instead, we “saved” a day by moving the next day’s itinerary up. We cruised past Walsh Cove and then part way up Toba Inlet rather than making Toba a one day event.
Toba Inlet is quite long and we only cruised to the first bend. The water got progressively more aquamarine in colour due to the glacial contributions therein. Sheer walls enclosed our little flotilla as we steamed up to Brem Bay. There, we stopped for a hurried lunch. Horseflies harried us as we tried to cook an omelette while tied to the dock of a logging outfit. While there, a zippy helicopter landed several loggers from up the mountainside. They got into a boat and hurried off to their camp. They guessed that the hot weather had halted the logging operation nearby, while they were still working because their cut block was at a higher elevation. So it was OK to use the dock.
We spent that night at Toba Wildernest Resort. We had made reservations and were met at the dock by Andrea. Soon, the docks were full and we were glad that we had done so. The resort has a pretty setting and sits on the site of an old logging operation. Andrea and her husband have created some hiking trails utilizing the old logging roads, but the one we hiked is the highlight of them all. It takes you to a spectacular waterfall which, although quite abbreviated due to the long dry spell, still gave us a good show. It was cool to stand near it and at one point on the trail, a pipe spills water to quench the thirsts of hikers. Very refreshing.
We spent the evening and the night being rocked, sometimes violently, by the harmonic waves generated by the mysterious movement of water out in the straights. Mysterious, for there was no wind. That evening’s moon rise was a silent spectacle.
Next morning, there was a pow wow over how to tackle Yuculta Rapids. We were pretty confident that we would arrive in plenty of time for slack water. At 1125, the log reads that we were drifting off Harbott Pt. on Stuart Island waiting for the moment we had calculated would be appropriate. Red Current forged ahead and radioed back that it was quite passable. The other two vessels then started up the channel and we pulled into Big Bay and docked at Stuart Island Marina. We signed in, got some supplies at the small store there and watched two other vessels come into the docks. It seemed to us that this is a pretty under-utilized marina although the facilities are quite nice. Elsewhere in the bay, there are private resorts for the well-to-do. It is a gorgeous setting and soon the roar of the rapids is heard in the distance. That night, it lulled us to sleep.
Big Bay docks are protected by a wind deflector, the first that we had seen. Apparently, during winter, strong winds channel down Bute Inlet and the little marina requires it There is a good hike to Eagle Lake where two row boats on the shore wait to carry swimmers to the float in the middle. The banks are rather silt-laden and so the boats come in handy for a refreshing swim. We all enjoyed the swim, Sable included.
Toba Inlet is quite long and we only cruised to the first bend. The water got progressively more aquamarine in colour due to the glacial contributions therein. Sheer walls enclosed our little flotilla as we steamed up to Brem Bay. There, we stopped for a hurried lunch. Horseflies harried us as we tried to cook an omelette while tied to the dock of a logging outfit. While there, a zippy helicopter landed several loggers from up the mountainside. They got into a boat and hurried off to their camp. They guessed that the hot weather had halted the logging operation nearby, while they were still working because their cut block was at a higher elevation. So it was OK to use the dock.
We spent that night at Toba Wildernest Resort. We had made reservations and were met at the dock by Andrea. Soon, the docks were full and we were glad that we had done so. The resort has a pretty setting and sits on the site of an old logging operation. Andrea and her husband have created some hiking trails utilizing the old logging roads, but the one we hiked is the highlight of them all. It takes you to a spectacular waterfall which, although quite abbreviated due to the long dry spell, still gave us a good show. It was cool to stand near it and at one point on the trail, a pipe spills water to quench the thirsts of hikers. Very refreshing.
We spent the evening and the night being rocked, sometimes violently, by the harmonic waves generated by the mysterious movement of water out in the straights. Mysterious, for there was no wind. That evening’s moon rise was a silent spectacle.
Next morning, there was a pow wow over how to tackle Yuculta Rapids. We were pretty confident that we would arrive in plenty of time for slack water. At 1125, the log reads that we were drifting off Harbott Pt. on Stuart Island waiting for the moment we had calculated would be appropriate. Red Current forged ahead and radioed back that it was quite passable. The other two vessels then started up the channel and we pulled into Big Bay and docked at Stuart Island Marina. We signed in, got some supplies at the small store there and watched two other vessels come into the docks. It seemed to us that this is a pretty under-utilized marina although the facilities are quite nice. Elsewhere in the bay, there are private resorts for the well-to-do. It is a gorgeous setting and soon the roar of the rapids is heard in the distance. That night, it lulled us to sleep.
Big Bay docks are protected by a wind deflector, the first that we had seen. Apparently, during winter, strong winds channel down Bute Inlet and the little marina requires it There is a good hike to Eagle Lake where two row boats on the shore wait to carry swimmers to the float in the middle. The banks are rather silt-laden and so the boats come in handy for a refreshing swim. We all enjoyed the swim, Sable included.
At 0700 next morning, we headed through Gillard and Dent Rapids, arriving at the latter a few minutes later than we had hoped to. Red Current radioed that it felt a little like walking over a sleeping giant. Sure enough, the little turbulence that we encountered gave some indication of what power there is in moving water. Water, like wind, speeds up to go past a resistance and we observed both of these phenomena on this trip.
By 0840 we were docked at Shoal Bay. I suspect now that the folks there were still either asleep or just getting up, but we came in full of excitement after running the Yucultas for the first time. We immediately fell in love with the place and opted to spend a day there rather than push on to Blind Channel Marina. Besides its beauty, the moorage cost was about one third of what Blind Channel charges.
Red Ranger needed internet access, so they cruised to Blind Channel Marina and showed up later in time for Happy Hour. Meantime, the other two crews climbed a mountain to look at the view. And what a view! Hikers walk from the marina grounds past a vegetable garden (pay by honour system) to an archway that leads to the trail. An hour later (only 20 minutes for 20-somethings) one reaches a rocky ledge that overlooks the bay and Phillips Arm beyond. It was thirsty work, for the weather was sunny and hot.
Luckily, the owners make re-hydration a treat. Happy Hour included a very well made Caesar, a fact that should be taken note of by the boating community. These Caesars are exotic in the way of Sullivan Bay cinnamon buns, for they were supercharged with horseradish and sipped on a patio that takes advantage of the view. Our American friends tasted these for the first time. Apparently, like Cheezies, these drinks are not commonly available in the USA, but luckily they contain no artificial colouring. If they did, you would know where someone's lips had been, wouldn't you?
The next day, we lazily got up and travelled the short distance to Blind Channel Marina. There, we stocked up on fuel and groceries. Both were expensive, but it is a challenge to operate a business in these parts that see only boaters for customers and those for only a short period in the summer. Word is that this year, the customer base is somewhat diminished.
A trail leads into the woods where the loggers spared a cedar tree that is the focal point of the nature walk there. With arms outstretched, I circled the giant and counted nearly ten arm spans or some 50 feet around at the base.
After killing off a bit more time, we ventured out to meet Johnstone Strait in a gale. Our strategy was to wait for the tide to turn to flood, so that wind and current moved together. Unfortunately, it was very rough coming out through Mayne Channel. We suffered rough water for about an hour and then turned to run with the waves util finally tucking in behind the Walkem Islands. It was definitely scary with waves some six feet high at times and very steep. Hugging the shoreline, we next passed behind Turn Island and then crossed over to Chatham Point. By this time, it was not nearly so rough as we turned into Discovery Passage. There, we were met by a spectacular display of dolphins feeding. They jumped out of the water, two and three at a time. The school? must have been a mile across. It was a highlight after the difficult transit of Johnstone Strait.
Continuing on, we entered Okisollo Channel and cruised into Owen Bay. There, while Rosa and I relaxed at anchor, the other crews went on a shore hike to see the rapids at Hole in the Wall. Before returning, they visited an old colleague of Bruce’s and drank beer. Fortunately, Sable led them safely back to the dock where their dinghies awaited. Good girl, Sable.
By 0840 we were docked at Shoal Bay. I suspect now that the folks there were still either asleep or just getting up, but we came in full of excitement after running the Yucultas for the first time. We immediately fell in love with the place and opted to spend a day there rather than push on to Blind Channel Marina. Besides its beauty, the moorage cost was about one third of what Blind Channel charges.
Red Ranger needed internet access, so they cruised to Blind Channel Marina and showed up later in time for Happy Hour. Meantime, the other two crews climbed a mountain to look at the view. And what a view! Hikers walk from the marina grounds past a vegetable garden (pay by honour system) to an archway that leads to the trail. An hour later (only 20 minutes for 20-somethings) one reaches a rocky ledge that overlooks the bay and Phillips Arm beyond. It was thirsty work, for the weather was sunny and hot.
Luckily, the owners make re-hydration a treat. Happy Hour included a very well made Caesar, a fact that should be taken note of by the boating community. These Caesars are exotic in the way of Sullivan Bay cinnamon buns, for they were supercharged with horseradish and sipped on a patio that takes advantage of the view. Our American friends tasted these for the first time. Apparently, like Cheezies, these drinks are not commonly available in the USA, but luckily they contain no artificial colouring. If they did, you would know where someone's lips had been, wouldn't you?
The next day, we lazily got up and travelled the short distance to Blind Channel Marina. There, we stocked up on fuel and groceries. Both were expensive, but it is a challenge to operate a business in these parts that see only boaters for customers and those for only a short period in the summer. Word is that this year, the customer base is somewhat diminished.
A trail leads into the woods where the loggers spared a cedar tree that is the focal point of the nature walk there. With arms outstretched, I circled the giant and counted nearly ten arm spans or some 50 feet around at the base.
After killing off a bit more time, we ventured out to meet Johnstone Strait in a gale. Our strategy was to wait for the tide to turn to flood, so that wind and current moved together. Unfortunately, it was very rough coming out through Mayne Channel. We suffered rough water for about an hour and then turned to run with the waves util finally tucking in behind the Walkem Islands. It was definitely scary with waves some six feet high at times and very steep. Hugging the shoreline, we next passed behind Turn Island and then crossed over to Chatham Point. By this time, it was not nearly so rough as we turned into Discovery Passage. There, we were met by a spectacular display of dolphins feeding. They jumped out of the water, two and three at a time. The school? must have been a mile across. It was a highlight after the difficult transit of Johnstone Strait.
Continuing on, we entered Okisollo Channel and cruised into Owen Bay. There, while Rosa and I relaxed at anchor, the other crews went on a shore hike to see the rapids at Hole in the Wall. Before returning, they visited an old colleague of Bruce’s and drank beer. Fortunately, Sable led them safely back to the dock where their dinghies awaited. Good girl, Sable.
Next day, we cruised through Okisollo rapids at slack and rafted up at Octopus Islands Marine Park on Quadra Island. This is a beautiful area with many islands forming a protective barrier for Waiatt Bay, at the head of which, there is a trail to Small Inlet. The trail starts at a midden site and takes you over a low rise and then down to Small Inlet. We observed the venturi winds here that puzzled us as to why wind should be so strong in such a sheltered-looking bay. Johnny the K joined us on a hike for the first time. He had sprained his ankle on Day 1, but it was now getting better. We were pretty convinced that the Caesars at Shoal Bay had something to do with that.
The other highlight to be seen here is the “driftwood museum” on one of the protective islands. Like at Wallace Island Marine Park, an old cabin has become the repository for pieces of decorated driftwood which boaters display on walls, benches or suspend from the rafters. All the while, a raven was busy knocking down green fir cones from the highest branches and these came crashing down into the underbrush or onto the roof of the cabin with loud results. Oh yeah, and the weather was sunny and warm.
Next day, July 28th, the happy little ships started off. On our boat, Rosa helmed us across Okisollo Channel and into Hole in the Wall Passage. It was nearing slack water and the turbulence was minimal. Several other boats accompanied us through this narrow slot which took about an hour to transit. Coming out the other side, we again joined Calm Channel and at last touched the route we had taken on the outward passage. Nearing Von Donnop Inlet, Red Ranger broke off to get on the internet at Gorge Harbour. We would meet again a day later, but meanwhile Red Current and Port Nut rafted up in Von Donnop Inlet to visit that area.
Von Donnop has trails at the head which lead to Squirrel Cove. Bruce and Debbie kayaked there and did some hiking, although they did not make it to Squirrel Cove. Apparently, BC Parks has no money for direction signs. At the same time, Rosa and I explored the inlet in our dinghy which is motorized for such longer ventures. Because the outboard is heavy and difficult to transfer, we normally row. In the evening, we went to explore the tidal lagoon and got caught inside. Then, the motor seemed to be a poor idea as we had to drag the dinghy back through the rapids while walking on slippery and barnacle-encrusted rocks. Bruce, who had had an easier transit with the kayaks, went to the trouble of coming back with a flashlight and warm clothes to help us back as night was rapidly falling. An exciting evening indeed and one that called for a two-finger scotch on the rocks! (Index and pinky)
Next morning was another gorgeous day as we cruised down Sutil Channel into Gorge Harbour on Cortes Island. During the transit I was hailed by a colleague (Kevin) from work on his passing Bayliner. We transited Uganda Passage which barely separates Cortes from Marina Island. There was a bit of current, but it is well marked and we had no problems. At last, Gorge Harbour came into view and it has a dramatic entrance. On one side is a sheer cliff with Indian petroglyphs still visible. Inside is a huge basin and on shore the Gorge Harbour Resort has beautiful boating facilities that include fuel, groceries, liquor, pool, showers and, of some importance to certain of our entourage, Yoga from 0900 to 1000. The non-practitioners twirled their thumbs and waited. It was an emotional leave-taking as the Red Ranger was breaking off to run for home. Our new friendships were cemented by then and it was sad to see John, Sharman and Sable take depart.
We others cruised to Hernando Island during which crossing we met “Pod 1” of the Ranger Tug Desolation Cruise. It was a beautiful sight to see about 15 boats cruising along toward Gorge Harbour. I chatted briefly with Mesmerized and wished them all well. Then it was time to stop at Spilsbury Point and walk on the tropical-like beach. This is a beautiful setting and has views north to Desolation Sound or southward into Georgia Strait. Out in the Strait lies Mitlenatch Island and then a great big expanse of water all the way down to San Juan Island in the USA. [If the reader is detecting a certain Spanish tone to the place names, it is because the Spanish were exploring this area in the early 1790s and charted much of the archipelago. For example, Hernando and Cortes Islands are named after the conquistador of Peru, Hernando Cortes. Nearby Marina Island is named for his Incan woman, Marina. Earlier, we had spent time at Quadra Island, named for the governor at Nootka before the British took possession of the territory under the Nootka Convention. Sutil Channel is named after one of the Spanish vessels that explored the area and was taken for a wild ride in one of the rapids.]
After a restful stop at Hernando Island, we made a long transit in beautiful, calm waters to Texada Island. We came to rest at Sturt Bay (town of Van Anda) where there is a dock with guest moorage. A pub lies a short walk away. We took advantage of the pub fare as we were getting pretty tired of cooking every day.
Our next leg was to cruise down the outer coast of Texada Island to Jedediah Island. Texada is incredibly long and the calm water, the hot day and drone from the engine made us all sleepy. At last we anchored at Jedediah.
A funny thing happened. Bruce became a bit paranoid at Jedediah as his anchor had dragged on a previous visit. As a result, the two rafted boats each set an anchor. Then, a stern line was tied ashore and, to ensure our security, a stern anchor was also deployed. Bruce eventually ran out of things to worry about.
Jedediah Island is a marine park and we spent that evening and the entire next day exploring it. There are trails ashore and remnants of a once-working farm. Feral sheep still inhabit the island, although the old horse “Will” who came with the island, died in 2003 and is buried there. On the second day, Rosa and I circumnavigated the island in our dinghy and noticed how the wind had picked up. That evening there was a beautiful sunset, but it meant nothing to Mother Nature who, rather than provide these sailors with delightful conditions, gave us wind! It was a white-knuckled ride of 4 hours down to Sechelt in 4 to 5 foot waves. Merry Island, the only weather station of any real use to us, was off-line. Thank you, Fisheries and Oceans (Stephen Harper)!
We found a pleasant reprieve at Selma Park, an artificial breakwater cove. Rowing ashore, we walked into Sechelt and bought a few needed items and had a great dinner at the Lighthouse Pub bordering Sechelt Inlet’s Porpoise Bay. Why, Debbie wondered, could we not spend the night in those calm waters? Unfortunately, it was a long way around through Skookumchuck Narrows to get there.
Next morning, August 3, was the last leg to take us home. At 0640, under cloudy skies, we cruised toward home taking a meandering side trip through the Pasley Islands. We docked at Granville Island at 1115 and toured ashore where there is good food and entertainment. The Vancouver Fireworks Festival was to have its finale that night, so we opted to stay out one more night. After getting anchoring permits at the Boating Welcome Centre, we rafted up in False Creek and in the evening went in Red Current to see the fireworks from English Bay.
The fireworks display was spectacular and as it ended, boats began to stream back into False Creek, hundreds of them. As we were among the first to return we sat rafted up and with a glass of wine in hand we watched the procession go by. It was a fitting end to a wonderful boating vacation.
The other highlight to be seen here is the “driftwood museum” on one of the protective islands. Like at Wallace Island Marine Park, an old cabin has become the repository for pieces of decorated driftwood which boaters display on walls, benches or suspend from the rafters. All the while, a raven was busy knocking down green fir cones from the highest branches and these came crashing down into the underbrush or onto the roof of the cabin with loud results. Oh yeah, and the weather was sunny and warm.
Next day, July 28th, the happy little ships started off. On our boat, Rosa helmed us across Okisollo Channel and into Hole in the Wall Passage. It was nearing slack water and the turbulence was minimal. Several other boats accompanied us through this narrow slot which took about an hour to transit. Coming out the other side, we again joined Calm Channel and at last touched the route we had taken on the outward passage. Nearing Von Donnop Inlet, Red Ranger broke off to get on the internet at Gorge Harbour. We would meet again a day later, but meanwhile Red Current and Port Nut rafted up in Von Donnop Inlet to visit that area.
Von Donnop has trails at the head which lead to Squirrel Cove. Bruce and Debbie kayaked there and did some hiking, although they did not make it to Squirrel Cove. Apparently, BC Parks has no money for direction signs. At the same time, Rosa and I explored the inlet in our dinghy which is motorized for such longer ventures. Because the outboard is heavy and difficult to transfer, we normally row. In the evening, we went to explore the tidal lagoon and got caught inside. Then, the motor seemed to be a poor idea as we had to drag the dinghy back through the rapids while walking on slippery and barnacle-encrusted rocks. Bruce, who had had an easier transit with the kayaks, went to the trouble of coming back with a flashlight and warm clothes to help us back as night was rapidly falling. An exciting evening indeed and one that called for a two-finger scotch on the rocks! (Index and pinky)
Next morning was another gorgeous day as we cruised down Sutil Channel into Gorge Harbour on Cortes Island. During the transit I was hailed by a colleague (Kevin) from work on his passing Bayliner. We transited Uganda Passage which barely separates Cortes from Marina Island. There was a bit of current, but it is well marked and we had no problems. At last, Gorge Harbour came into view and it has a dramatic entrance. On one side is a sheer cliff with Indian petroglyphs still visible. Inside is a huge basin and on shore the Gorge Harbour Resort has beautiful boating facilities that include fuel, groceries, liquor, pool, showers and, of some importance to certain of our entourage, Yoga from 0900 to 1000. The non-practitioners twirled their thumbs and waited. It was an emotional leave-taking as the Red Ranger was breaking off to run for home. Our new friendships were cemented by then and it was sad to see John, Sharman and Sable take depart.
We others cruised to Hernando Island during which crossing we met “Pod 1” of the Ranger Tug Desolation Cruise. It was a beautiful sight to see about 15 boats cruising along toward Gorge Harbour. I chatted briefly with Mesmerized and wished them all well. Then it was time to stop at Spilsbury Point and walk on the tropical-like beach. This is a beautiful setting and has views north to Desolation Sound or southward into Georgia Strait. Out in the Strait lies Mitlenatch Island and then a great big expanse of water all the way down to San Juan Island in the USA. [If the reader is detecting a certain Spanish tone to the place names, it is because the Spanish were exploring this area in the early 1790s and charted much of the archipelago. For example, Hernando and Cortes Islands are named after the conquistador of Peru, Hernando Cortes. Nearby Marina Island is named for his Incan woman, Marina. Earlier, we had spent time at Quadra Island, named for the governor at Nootka before the British took possession of the territory under the Nootka Convention. Sutil Channel is named after one of the Spanish vessels that explored the area and was taken for a wild ride in one of the rapids.]
After a restful stop at Hernando Island, we made a long transit in beautiful, calm waters to Texada Island. We came to rest at Sturt Bay (town of Van Anda) where there is a dock with guest moorage. A pub lies a short walk away. We took advantage of the pub fare as we were getting pretty tired of cooking every day.
Our next leg was to cruise down the outer coast of Texada Island to Jedediah Island. Texada is incredibly long and the calm water, the hot day and drone from the engine made us all sleepy. At last we anchored at Jedediah.
A funny thing happened. Bruce became a bit paranoid at Jedediah as his anchor had dragged on a previous visit. As a result, the two rafted boats each set an anchor. Then, a stern line was tied ashore and, to ensure our security, a stern anchor was also deployed. Bruce eventually ran out of things to worry about.
Jedediah Island is a marine park and we spent that evening and the entire next day exploring it. There are trails ashore and remnants of a once-working farm. Feral sheep still inhabit the island, although the old horse “Will” who came with the island, died in 2003 and is buried there. On the second day, Rosa and I circumnavigated the island in our dinghy and noticed how the wind had picked up. That evening there was a beautiful sunset, but it meant nothing to Mother Nature who, rather than provide these sailors with delightful conditions, gave us wind! It was a white-knuckled ride of 4 hours down to Sechelt in 4 to 5 foot waves. Merry Island, the only weather station of any real use to us, was off-line. Thank you, Fisheries and Oceans (Stephen Harper)!
We found a pleasant reprieve at Selma Park, an artificial breakwater cove. Rowing ashore, we walked into Sechelt and bought a few needed items and had a great dinner at the Lighthouse Pub bordering Sechelt Inlet’s Porpoise Bay. Why, Debbie wondered, could we not spend the night in those calm waters? Unfortunately, it was a long way around through Skookumchuck Narrows to get there.
Next morning, August 3, was the last leg to take us home. At 0640, under cloudy skies, we cruised toward home taking a meandering side trip through the Pasley Islands. We docked at Granville Island at 1115 and toured ashore where there is good food and entertainment. The Vancouver Fireworks Festival was to have its finale that night, so we opted to stay out one more night. After getting anchoring permits at the Boating Welcome Centre, we rafted up in False Creek and in the evening went in Red Current to see the fireworks from English Bay.
The fireworks display was spectacular and as it ended, boats began to stream back into False Creek, hundreds of them. As we were among the first to return we sat rafted up and with a glass of wine in hand we watched the procession go by. It was a fitting end to a wonderful boating vacation.